Bologna

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BolognaTurismoINFORMA

Three Faces to Bologna

There are three faces to Bologna - Bologna la rossa (the red), famed for her rusty rooftops, rich hues of terracotta and left-wing leanings; Bologna la dotta (the scholarly), so-called because the city is home to the oldest university in the world; and Bologna la grassa (the fat), the cradle of Italian gastronomy. Founded by the Etruscans on the Po Plains in 600BC as Felsina, the northeast Italian city was renamed Bononia by the Gauls, whose French overtones can still be heard in the local dialect. Bologna came to worldwide attention with the founding of the university in 1088, when two thousand students from all over Europe poured into the medieval commune. Porticoes supporting additional lodgings sprung up all over the city to house the influx of newcomers and Bologna's leitmotif was born. Today, 40km (25 miles) of ochre-coloured arcades still shadow the streets - covered walkways that give Bologna its unique style. Under these arches, lovers shelter from prying eyes, elegant Bolognese ladies take refuge from the rain and North African immigrants proffer lighters and bogus Gucci wallets.

Bologna has always maintained a homespun realism and attention to detail, even in its architecture, disdaining marble in favour of bricks. From Piazza Maggiore, the cobbled streets spread outwards towards the city gates, like spokes on a crumpled bicycle-wheel. This is the heart of Bologna, a handsome square sealed on all sides by medieval palazzi and the half-finished bulk of San Petronio. Here, amid the pigeons, the Bolognese come to shop, to pray, to chat and to demonstrate. Politics excites a good deal of passion in 'Red Bologna', famous for being the first city to elect a Communist council. When the Bolognese professor and former prime minister, Romano Prodi, lead the Olive Tree coalition to victory in the 1996 elections, he gave the Communist Party their first legitimate role in government. The PDS have long been considered the least corrupt local government in Italy. However, sometimes the politics have turned nasty. Every year, a commemorative service is held on 2 August, to honour the 84 people who died when Bologna's train station was bombed by right-wing terrorists in 1980. But this proud and solid community will not be bullied. Only at mealtimes do the Bolognese fall silent. In Bologna, a social conscience goes hand in hand with a hearty appetite. The Mercato dell'Erbe, just off Piazza Maggiore, is a riot of sounds, smells and colours. Shop windows are laden with succulent hams and spicy salamis, while scores of restaurants devote hours to pummelling, stretching and stuffing fresh pasta.

Although summers are hot and generally dry, winters on the Emilia-Romagna plains can be cold. The climate is moderate in spring and autumn, with a general lack of tourists, these are the best times to visit. In comparison, July and August are generally hot with plenty of tourists around.

Progressive, wealthy and cosmopolitan - with an excellent quality of life akin to Sweden's - the city is one of Italy's leading centres of industry and business. The fairground district, built in the 1960s by the Japanese architect Kenzo Tange, echoes the medieval towers of Bologna. As the fifth largest exhibition centre in Europe, it plays host to major international trade fairs and dictates the ebb and flow of city life. In 2000, Bologna was one of nine European cities of culture, enjoying a huge programme of music, cinema, theatre and public spending to open the city up to foreign visitors. Improved accessibility to the city's russet charms promises to draw tourists from afar, while the sheer abundance of food and hospitality means that some may never leave.

From WorldTravelGuide.net copyright © Columbus Publishing Ltd 2002